What a solo trip to Gangtok taught me about slowing down

I booked my trip at a time when I was not only tired but also overwhelmed. After being unable to decide upon researching, I just flew to Bagdogra, took a shared vehicle to Gangtok, and spent four days with no set plans. 

I expected mountains. I got something I was not expecting at all, and that is a genuine lesson in doing less and feeling more.

What Gangtok is, before the Instagram version

Gangtok is located in the eastern Himalayas, as the capital of Sikkim and is approximately 1650 metres above sea level. It is a small walkable city, filled with Buddhist monasteries, offering diverse mountain vistas, and having one main street that is not too crowded. 

The road up from Bagdogra sets the tone

The drive from Bagdogra airport to Gangtok takes approximately four hours. It winds up through tea gardens, small towns, and the Teesta River valley. The road narrows as you climb. The air changes noticeably around Rangpo, where you cross into Sikkim.

I shared a cab with two other travellers with whom I collectively watched the hills get taller and the valleys get deeper. By the time Gangtok appeared on the ridge, I was already in a different headspace. 

MG Marg: The street that teaches you to wander

MG Marg is Gangtok’s main pedestrian street. It is car-free, lined with cafés, small shops, and benches where people sit and watch nothing in particular happen.

I spent more time on this street than anywhere else in Gangtok. Not shopping, not eating, just walking slowly and sitting when I felt like it. On my second morning, I found a bench near the far end of MG Marg. I sat there with a cup of coffee for forty minutes. It was one of the most quietly enjoyable hours of the entire trip.

Rumtek Monastery: Where the silence has weight

Rumtek Monastery is one of the most significant Kagyu Buddhist monasteries in the world. It sits approximately 24 kilometres from Gangtok, perched on a ridge overlooking a wide green valley.

I hired a cab for the morning and arrived just after 9:00 am. The monastery complex is large and well-maintained, with prayer flags lining every path. I sat in the courtyard for a long time. The valley below was covered in morning clouds. Likewise, I experienced it clearing slowly, which was a unique experience in itself.

Tsomgo Lake: Go early or not at all

Tsomgo Lake is approximately 40 km from Gangtok and is a glacier-fed lake at an elevation of just under 3,800 metres above sea level. Due to its scenic beauty, Tsomgo Lake is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Sikkim. This was evident when I arrived mid-morning, past the crowds.

I left Gangtok at approximately 06:00 am that day and arrived at the lake around 08:00 am. Upon arriving at the lake, the water was a deep blue-green colour, and there were very few tourists present. I was at the lake until approximately 09:30 am, after which coaches began arriving by the time I left. The timing made a significant difference.

The food that slowed me down further

Gangtok’s food is reason enough to linger. You can enjoy momos from a small stall near the taxi stand, steamed, thin-skinned, filled with gently spiced vegetables. You also can’t miss out on the thukpa on a cold evening at a restaurant on MG Marg, with the broth warming everything from the inside. 

Additionally, there is Tongba, the traditional millet beer served in a bamboo vessel with a metal straw, which I had once had and found deeply comforting. Travellers looking for hotels in Gangtok often discover that the city is best experienced at a slower pace, with enough time to enjoy its cafés, viewpoints, monasteries, and mountain scenery without rushing from one attraction to another. 

What solo travel in Gangtok actually teaches you

Visiting Gangtok may not feel as fulfilling if you come with a busy schedule. Rather, it’s completely worthwhile for people who will sit in a coffee shop about an hour longer than they had planned on. 

Not surprisingly, when I returned from Gangtok, I felt rested in a way that sleeping alone is not enough. The city itself didn’t do anything spectacular. However, it gave me four days of relaxation and allowed me to figure out what to do with my time.